What Exfoliator Do Dermatologists Recommend?

Which exfoliator do dermatologists recommend?

Most dermatologists prefer gentle chemical exfoliants matched to your skin type. There's no single product that works for everybody, and that's why the ingredient list matters.

The ingredient matters more than the brand. A fancy bottle promising instant smooth skin isn't worth much if the acid inside doesn't suit your face.

Chemical exfoliants loosen dead skin cells without the gritty rubbing of a traditional scrub. But don't assume every acid is gentle. Its strength, how often you use it and what else is on your bathroom shelf all make a difference.

The American Academy of Dermatology recommends matching your exfoliation method to your skin type. Be extra careful if you're already using products that leave your skin sensitive.

What should you avoid?

• Skip gritty walnut scrubs.
• A dry washcloth rubbed over flaky cheeks can leave your skin sore (a little pressure goes a long way).
• Sunburned skin? Leave it alone.
• Stop if redness or burning starts, especially when peeling follows.

Which acid suits your skin?

Lactic, mandelic, salicylic and PHA all suit different skin concerns. The right one depends on what your skin looks and feels like after cleansing.

Tight cheeks or flaky patches around your nose? Lactic acid is a good place to start. It's an alpha hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin's surface, and a gentle formula is often a better match for dry skin.

Mandelic acid is worth a look if stronger exfoliants tend to bother your face. Its molecules are larger than glycolic acid's, so it penetrates more slowly. Start with a mild formula, not a strong peel.

For a shiny nose, oily forehead or pores that look clogged, salicylic acid makes more sense. It's oil-soluble, so it can work inside oilier pores. A 2% salicylic acid product is a common over-the-counter option.

PHA stands for polyhydroxy acid. If stronger exfoliants leave your skin uncomfortable, look for gluconolactone or lactobionic acid on the label. Their molecules are larger than AHAs and tend to penetrate more slowly. Even so, very reactive skin can still get irritated.

Which ingredient should you try?

• Lactic acid suits dry, flaky cheeks.
• Mandelic acid is worth considering if stronger acids leave your face uncomfortable (start with a mild formula).
• Oily pores? Salicylic acid is the better match.
• PHA is an option when very sensitive skin struggles with other acids.

Are chemical exfoliants better than scrubs?

For many people, gentle chemical exfoliants are easier on the skin than gritty scrubs. Too much rubbing can leave an already irritated face feeling worse.

Ever rubbed a rough scrub over a flaky cheek and ended up with a red patch? Your skin might feel smooth for a few minutes, but too much pressure can leave it tight and uncomfortable. Harsh scrubs aren't a great first choice when your face is already dry or sensitive.

With chemical exfoliants, you can control the ingredient and concentration instead of relying on friction. Still, don't get carried away. A strong acid peel can irritate your skin just as much as an aggressive scrub.

The American Academy of Dermatology says people with dry, sensitive or acne-prone skin may prefer a mild chemical exfoliant to mechanical exfoliation. It also warns that aggressive exfoliation can contribute to dark spots, particularly if you're prone to post-inflammatory pigmentation.

If you like physical exfoliation, a soft washcloth and gentle pressure are a different story from grinding gritty particles across your face. Your skin doesn't need to feel squeaky clean afterward.

When should you skip exfoliation?

• Your face is already burning or peeling.
• An active sunburn means your skin needs a break (even your gentlest scrub can make things worse).
• Open cuts or wounds? Wait until they're healed.
• If eczema or rosacea is flaring, leave exfoliants out of your routine.

How should you start using one?

Start with one exfoliating product, once a week. That's enough to see how your skin reacts without piling on too much too soon.

You don't need three different acids lined up on your bathroom shelf. Start with one lower-strength product and follow its label. If you've never exfoliated before, once a week is a sensible schedule.

After cleansing, follow the product directions on whether your face should be damp or completely dry. Keep the formula away from your eyelids, the corners of your nose and your lips. Rinse-off products should stay on only as long as the label says.

Finish with a plain moisturizer. The next morning, put on broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher sunscreen. AHAs in particular can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight, so don't skip this step.

When you're just starting out, don't use your new exfoliant on the same night as retinol, another acid or benzoyl peroxide. All of them can contribute to irritation. Already using prescription acne treatments or retinoids? Ask your dermatologist before adding another exfoliant.

If your skin stays comfortable, you can think about moving up to twice a week. There's no reason to exfoliate every night. Persistent redness, stinging, swelling or peeling means you should stop and speak with a qualified dermatologist. Get professional advice if you have allergies, a diagnosed skin condition or irritation that keeps coming back.

What does your first week look like?

• Patch-test before starting.
• Once during the week is plenty while your skin gets used to the new formula (don't add another acid yet).
• Skin feeling tight afterward? Apply moisturizer right away.
• Every morning, wear broad-spectrum SPF 30 sunscreen.

Which exfoliating ingredient makes sense for your skin?